Paradise's corners : Maratea
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Heavenly Corners : Maratea
by Ermanno Milone
Published in Nautica 517 May 2005 www.nautica.it
For years I have been planning to sail around the world in thirty days with my ten-meter sailboat, and for years my world has been limited to the coast between Punta Stendardo, just before Gaeta, and the Island of Dino, just below Maratea.
Because, as the Maga Circe said, if you like something, don't look for another one that you might not find.
A Divine Story
And I was, precisely, in a bar by the coast one warm, starry summer evening making these and other reflections when, many years ago, an old man, one of those you find in ancient sea stories (before the first America's Cup, to put it mildly), told me how those areas were created, swearing to me that everything he was about to tell me was true, because it had been told to him, in turn, by another old sailor when he was a small boy with eyes as big as saucers.
"You know - he began - how it ended up on Golgotha, that Jesus made friends with the good thief and got into a bit of a fight with the other thief who then became the bad thief. Well, once the Drama was over, the three came down from their respective crosses and each set off to put on their everyday clothes. Once they were dressed, Jesus and his new friend set off on the road to Paradise while the other, who should have set off towards that of Hell, lingered somewhat. Indeed, the bad thief, once dressed, not only did not set off towards the road of the Damned, as they say, but followed at a distance the two who were proceeding towards Paradise. The thing did not escape the good thief who, turning to Jesus, says: "That one is following us" and Jesus in reply: "Let him do so, there will be someone to guide him to the place he has earned."
After a few steps, the good thief resumes: "Are you sure you don't want to forgive him?" At this point, Jesus stops, looks intensely at his companion and replies: "I don't think that you or anyone else has understood that I am not good but I am just."
The observation convinced Jesus who made a gesture to the other to come closer and so the three set off towards Paradise discussing this and that, each one revealing to the others the plans for their new future. Meanwhile it had become evening and hunger was making itself felt, especially after all the events of the day just passed. And it was Jesus himself who proposed: "Let's go get a pizza," adding to himself, "it doesn't make much difference if I present myself tonight or tomorrow morning to my Father." The three, having passed through the gates of Paradise, entered the first restaurant they found. However, Jesus said to them first: "Let's find a place not too visible, because if they recognize me, the evening will be over and I won't even get a bit of rest." The three sat down and Jesus' two companions could admire the place where they had entered.
Amalfi and Maratea
Meanwhile, the ceiling and walls were decorated in such a way as to make Michelangelo and the entire Sistine Chapel seem trivial, the glassware was astonishing, and the cutlery was all made of metal and of indescribable value and beauty, not to mention the fragrance of food and drinks that filled the entire place.
"And this is just a restaurant. Imagine the rest!" they thought. However, as the waitress approached to take their orders, Jesus was recognized and had to leave his guests to respond to the warmth of the welcome from those who had been waiting for him for many years.
And the two thieves? The two thieves, left alone and faced with such abundance, remembered that they were thieves and, finding some sacks, filled them with everything that could be taken and fled. Naturally, in their mad dash, they retraced the path they had taken and found themselves once again at Golgotha, facing the crosses that had not yet been removed. At the sight of this, they were seized with terror and, aware of what they had just done, said to each other: "Let's run away, for if they catch us, we'll stay here forever." And so, gathering their belongings, they resumed their flight, which they suddenly halted because they had reached the sea. "And now?" was the question they asked, frightened by the new situation that had not been anticipated. It was night and they had to find a quick solution.
The solution was found in a boat that had been pulled ashore, whose crew had fallen asleep around a fire. Putting the boat back in the water with those asleep was child's play, and setting sail with a providential favorable wind was even easier. And with their precious belongings, they embarked on a voyage northward. Reaching the Italian coast, they followed it until where Maratea now stands. There, one of the two said to the other: "I'm tired. I'm getting off," and they parted ways.
The other resumed the voyage and landed with his sack where Amalfi now stands.
That's why, the Old Man continued, the area around Maratea and that of Amalfi are corners of Paradise. Indeed, as confirmation and demonstration of this, at six hundred meters and directly above the port of Maratea stands a statue of Christ who welcomes you with open arms, especially evident to those who have rounded Cape Palinuro and are sailing eastward. In Amalfi, there is even a contract clearly inscribed and visible on the city's main portal, which states: "For all those from Amalfi who go to Paradise, Judgment Day will be just another day.”.
Here ended the old man's story. I said nothing.
We finished drinking together, then he left and I, before returning on board, remained for a few more moments thinking about what had just been told to me immersed in the warmth and stars of that wonderful night panorama.
I have returned and will return again to that coast where winds alternate with calms, heat with cold, sun with clouds, as everywhere.
And as everywhere the reality of daily life has suppressed fantasy.
However, the kindness of the people in those places, the gentleness of the air, the majestic dimension of the sea, and, why not, the wonderful taste of the food, create together surprising fantastic truths.
Right from Paradise.